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Yesterday’s upwind motor-sail was pretty anticlimactic when compared to the previous two days’ fast rides, but the lack of drama was welcomed. Rebecca was even able to cook us a hot breakfast while underway: Popeyes, a recipe posted online at GalleySwap (a new website I just came across). It was apparently submitted there by Matt and Christie from s/v Kaleo. Anyway, we made it to Norfolk, VA and now anchored at Hospital Point, which we believe is Mile ZERO (to cruising?) of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway.

Our intention is to hang out here for the day and set off down the ICW tomorrow. We anticipate the trip down the ICW will be much like our experiences with the Oswego and Erie Canals in that there isn’t really much, if any choices on where to go. The primary choices we make will relate to how far we’ll want to travel in a given day, where we will stop and how much time we’ll spend at each location. What will be tougher about this leg of the journey though, when compared to the canals, is the tides and currents that we’ll have to contend with. We’d better start reading our guidebooks!

Not a cloud in the sky.

There are plenty of warships here in Norfolk.

We love red sails!

Doesn’t this look like something out of starwars?

And this looks like something a super hero should be battling.

Our neighbor, while at anchor, until they took off on their voyage. We were warned over the VHF radio to stay better than 500 yards away, or else!

This still isn’t like really being there, but it’s a bit better than a still photo. I recorded this clip on Saturday, shortly before it started getting scary!

25 Comments

  1. Rebecca looks like a serious salty dog! Arrrrgh! It’s all so familiar and I am so excited for you two! Have fun!!!

  2. Coat? Gloves? Gee its in the 80’s down here. Keep ahead of the cold weather, we will keep some sun for you here!!!

  3. I’m surprised that the cruise ship required a 500 yard perimeter. Warship, yes – cruise ship, no.

  4. Just came down that way in our Seawind 1000 and instead of doing the ICW through the Alligator river we went towards the outer banks and stopped at Manteo were there is a free dock. Next stop was Ocracoke anchored in Silver Lake. Great places to stop and you can actually sail the whole trip if the wind is right! AJ

  5. We did the Alligator River when we moved our boat from Kitty Hawk to Matthews Point. Visiting Manteo would be nice for you. We went to Ocracoke in June for several days. We had a great time. You have some great choices on the coast of NC. Oriental or you can also come across to Matthews Point Marina (google location). Then Beaufort is beautiful. Let us know when you’re closer and we’ll see if we can meet up with you and treat you to some Southern hospitality.

    • I need to get our charts out to find where these places are! We have our routes planned only about 2 days in advance. I have heard that Oriental is a good place to stop though.

      Did I already ask you to send us an email with your contact info? I just looked and didn’t see it. If you did, or didn’t , would you? 🙂 Our email is:

      zero to cruising AT gmail DOT com

      🙂

  6. Hey guys,

    You’ve finally made it down to my home waters. I’ve been following your blog for a couple months now. It’s been great fun. My number is 757-286-7476. Give me a call if you need to hit West Marine or Costco before heading down the ICW. I’m only about 20 minutes away from Hospital Point down the Eastern branch of the Elizabeth River. I’m glad you got some decent weather for your stop in Norfolk. This is my favorite time of year here.

    Best regards,

    Chris

    • Hi Chris

      Thank you very, very much for the offer! We “were” heading to shore today, until our dinghy engine decided to act up (AGAIN!) while we were in the channel. More on that tomorrow.

      I’m sorry that we won’t have an opportunity to meet up as we’re planning on heading into the swamp tomorrow afternoon. We do appreciate it though.

      • No worries, I know you guys want to get down to that warm weather. Everybody is always in a hurry to get south, or north in the Spring. It’s a shame, there is a lot to see here. There’s a lot to see where you are headed though too. Best of luck on your trip south. Pick your weather carefully when crossing the Albemarle Sound. It’s even more shallow than the bay and can get nasty quick.

        • Hi Chris

          Yes, I have heard that about the Albemarle Sound. It sounds a bit like Lake Oneida that we had to cross on the Erie Canal. We’ll certainly do as you suggest.

  7. Rebecca sure does look the salty dog: the foulies, the harness (clipped in?), the hat. No, wait – not the hat.

    • That hat rocks:)

      She was not clipped in because our cockpit it ridiculously protected. We always clip in when under sail or in bad weather when leaving the cockpit.

  8. We call Popeyes Toad in a Hole here, I like Popeyes better. Thanks for posting the Galley Swap site. I may have to get a copy of that book for my daughter, she’s about to go back to the Yachts, her Schooner days were a bit too lean this summer.

    Do us a favor and start Schooner spotting when you post the pictures of them. That one looked a little familiar but I couldn’t see the name of it.

  9. From the Coast Guard:
    _________________

    The Coast Guard is reminding mariners and recreational boaters to avoid approaching large passenger vessels (LPV), such as cruise ships and ferries, whether these vessels are underway, moored or at anchor.

    An LPV is defined as any cruise ship, auto ferry or passenger ferry over 100 feet in length, carrying paying passengers. The security zone enforced by the Coast Guard is a 500 yard radius around all LPV’s and are necessary to enhance public and maritime safety. These safety and security zones are in effect at all times whether or not the Coast Guard is present.

    Specifically the Code of Federal Regulations states that:

    When within a large passenger vessel security and safety zone all vessels must operate at the minimum speed necessary to maintain a safe course and must proceed as directed by the on-scene official patrol or large passenger vessel master. No vessel or person is allowed within 100 yards of a large passenger vessel that is underway or at anchor, unless authorized by the on-scene official patrol or large passenger vessel master. No vessel or person is allowed within 25 yards of a large passenger vessel that is moored.

    ________________

    So, within 500 yards, their rules. Personally, the “deadly force” comment sounds rather adolescent on their part. I’ve been much closer–monitoring 16–and never had a comment.

    • They definitely said “deadly force.” We weren’t about to test them on it, especially because the Cruise Ship was blasting the song YMCA, and I didn’t need to get any closer to that! 🙂

  10. Congratulations on reaching another stage in your trip South.

  11. Thanks for spreading the word about GalleySwap! We are giving away the book “The Frugal Yacht” to the first community member to post 20 unique recipes. Hope to see more recipes soon!

  12. Hi there. Just found your blog and saw your pictures of Norfolk. We’re from there (sort of) and got married on that ship with the red sails (The American Rover)! Anyway, we’re currently cruising in Mexico making our way to the Galapagos and thought we would say hi. Have fun, be safe. Wishing you Fair winds and following seas from fellow catamaran cruisers!

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