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Imagine struggling to install or remove a stainless steel cotter pin while your 45′ mast dangles precariously from a crane, high above your boat. This is a situation that has repeated itself on several occasions since we took possession of ZTC back in July 2009. The cotter pins, which secure the clevis pins, holding the stays (steel cables) to the boat, are extremely hard and are difficult to manage with what one would assume is the proper tool for the job, needle nose pliers.

Although I don’t know a lot about fixing things, I do like to carefully watch those who do so that if ever a task needs to be repeated, I might be somewhat prepared to tackle it. It was exactly this that happened when back in the Chesapeake, we had a rigger install the insulator in our starboard shroud for what would become our SSB radio’s antenna.

When the time came for the rigger to deal with the cotter pins, I noticed that instead of needle nose pliers, he picked side cutters as his tool of choice. When I asked him about his choice, he said that definitely, they were the best tool for the job (he had little good things to say about the usefulness for needle nose pliers). Since that time, I have followed his recommendation and can attest that it is 1000% easier to control and bend those strong pins with side cutters. The job is no longer the stress and profanity filled exercise that it once was. If you’re not already doing so, try it.

13 Comments

  1. It’s the little tricks that make things so much easier! Thanks for the tip!

  2. One point to make is cotter pins should NOT be bent backwards in an extreme fashion. The technical team from the Marion to Bermuda Ocean Race performed extensive testing and showed that they should only be opened to a 30 – 45 degree angle. Beyond this and they lose strength.

    Another point is wherever possible, replace your cotter pins with high quality split rings.

    Fair WInds,
    Mike

    • I didn’t know that about the angle. Thanks Mike.

      “High quality” is a key phrase. We did at one time replace the cotter pins on our turnbuckles with split rings but found that they rusted. They were stainless, purchased at a chandlery too.

  3. As the name of the plyer implies side cutters are indeed “cutters” . As a former apprentice electrician, we dealt with both of these types of plyers on a daily basis. As long as you have good “feel” you can use this tool for many different applications. Though on a couple of occasions in my haste I have cut through the soft copper wire used in electrical wiring . Fortunately the cotter pin is made of much stronger material.

  4. Some comments:

    Cotter pins should never be re-used.

    I have had a surveyor require all split rings be replaced with cotter pins.

    I suspect the main reason people bend cotter pins back severely is to reduce the chances of something catching on them and ripping (sails, skin, etc.) as well as avoiding chafe. While some wrap them in tape as a chafe guard, there are those who believe tape is bad in that it accellerates corrosion of stainless as it cannot “breathe”.

    There are different types of split rings. I have direct experience with one type mysteriously coming out of our lifeline connections. It was the type that is manufactured with a bend to presumably make them easier to install/remove. I think it is better to use the overlapping round ones instead, although they can be much more difficult to install/remove, especially the smaller ones.

  5. How are the Canadian Tire Mastercraft tools holding up in the marine environment? I’ve got the same set.

  6. My maternal grandfather was a machinist, which is no doubt the source of my fix-it gene, along with HOURS of training as a small boy. I learned the diagonal cutter and small angle thing before I can clearly remember.

    I will suggest that you carefully consider where you apply rings. I have seen them get whisked from their places when hooked into the weave of a double braid sheet, followed by a rig coming down. Many surveyors ask for their replacement with standard cotters. Just make sure it is a protected location.

  7. I have had difficulty fitting split rings into the turnbuckles on Eolian. Most are still using cotter pins as a result.

    I can see where bending the cotter pin legs back at a severe angle would weaken them, and that the gentle (but dangerous!) spread would prevent creation of a stress riser just where the leg exits the fitting. But on Eolian, the cotter pin legs were all bent around into a circle, a practice we have continued. I believe that the circle bend is the best of both worlds: no sharp bends, and no raw ends to snag.

    bob

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