Holey boats
Here is something I don’t like: drilling or cutting holes in our boat! Just the thought of it bugs me, even if the holes aren’t going to be anywhere near the water that we are floating in.
Why would we want to do such a thing in the first place? Well, every piece of flush-mounted gear on our boat has been recessed into a hole that was cut to the appropriate size. And on a smaller scale, every surface mounted object has been at least screwed into the hull somewhere, requiring several smaller-sized holes. Why does this bug me? I guess it’s the permanence of the whole (no pun intended) thing. What if we change our minds about the location, or what if the gear breaks and we need to replace it with something of a different shape or size? I remember watching a DVD by the Pardeys where they said that before they ever drilled a hole to permanently affix something in their boat, they would first lash it there and see how the location worked for a while. Obviously that isn’t going to work in every case, but it may be helpful for others.
The image above shows, in addition to the beautifully flush-mounted Raymarine instruments, the older Garmin unit that we are now selling. It has been replaced with a 546.
Just the other day I needed to mount our new Garmin GPS. What do you think the chances are that the mounting holes for the new bracket would match up with the one shown above? Zero, of course. Did I stress about drilling the new pilot holes for the mounting screws? Yes, a bit. This was only made a bit less stressful because the older holes were going to be hidden by the new bracket.
Yesterday we had a friend from our Seamanship class, David, visit our boat to give us some advice on our upcoming windlass install. He gave me a bit of good news in that one of the items which I thought would need to be flush mounted in a visible area will be more appropriately located in a hidden section of the boat. Although that is one less big hole to worry about there will still be plenty of othes required. Most of them will be smaller screws-and-bolts type holes, but there is also the up-down toggle switch to locate somewhere accessible.
For those who are not up to speed on this process, even the act of properly drilling a hole in a fiberglass deck is not all that straight forward. Well, drilling it is, but stopping water ingress into the core material is not. When we had our friend Chris over to install our bow roller last September I paid fairly close attention to what he was doing. The bow roller needed several bolts to secure it to the deck. Rather than just drilling a hole suitably sized to the bolt he first drilled an oversized hole. We then covered the bottom of the hole with duct tape (fortunately we had access to this area) and then filled the hole flush with epoxy. The next day, after the epoxy had hardened, we drilled the final holes through the epoxy properly sized for the bolts. The purpose of these extra steps is apparently to stop water from seeping into the core of the boat, which would damage it. I’ll soon have several holes like this to do when I get around to installing the new anchor windlass and chain stopper.
Here is a good link I just found which explains in detail the process I was attempting to describe above.
I did go around for most of a season with a cardboard box taped where I though the heater would go. Of course, I had no desire to mount the heater until fall. I was chicken about drilling a hole, too; the stack required a 4 1/2-inch hole in the roof. In cases like that, you do not drill over size; you drill the right size and use a bent nail (~ 1/4-inch to the side) in drill to pulverized the core. Then fill the grove with thickened epoxy. Actually, I do most holes that way. I like to leave as much skin in place as I can.
The chain stopper, on your boat, is only to secure the anchor, not to hold the load. Thus, I chose (made, actually) one with a pin that simply comes out. The ratchet type would just be trouble. The load is held by the bridle.
Happy drilling!
I am familiar with the method you are describing and agree that it probably makes more sense than the other way for larger holes. In fact, I thought I had bookmarked a good description of that but I just looked and can’t find it at the moment.
This is the chain stopper that we have:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/woeimages/Vetus/51535.jpg
We will not be using it to support the load when anchoring.
I’d like to hear how that works out. I went with a simple pin trough the chain, since I thought the flapper would be annoying rather than useful. However, if you like it and find the plate useful, I may retrofit mine with a plate.
http://sail-delmarva.blogspot.com/2009/11/anchor-and-bow-details.html
Also, notice that the windlass switches are between the windlass and the side deck; that’s a good location. I presently heard of a fellow in Ft. Lauderdale (I have business there) that lost 2 fingers to a similar windlass because he lost his balance while raising the anchor, got his fingers wrapped in the chain, and fell such that he was sitting on the switch! Because he was on his left hip and the left hand was caught, he couldn’t get the weight off the switch, and those windlasses are POWERFUL. So, any location you can’t fall on would be good!
Makes sense. We purchased a Quick wireless handheld control unit to operate the windlass. I am not at present planning on installing foot switches (MORE HOLES IN DECK REQUIRED). I think we will put the toggle switch that came with it by the helm for backup.
Bottom one on each page…
Transmitter:
http://www.quickitaly.com/?lng=us&ms1=10&ms2=8&ms3=39&ms4=89&cs1=1&cs2=8&stp=ps
Receiver:
http://www.quickitaly.com/?lng=us&ms1=10&ms2=8&ms3=39&ms4=90&cs1=1&cs2=8&stp=ps
Hopefully this stuff all works. We purchased it last season.
I have switches at both ends. However, it is hard to see from the helm so I seldom use it. If I have to raise anchor alone (often) I simply bump the windlass now and then, and wait for the waves to cause slack, then bump again. I figure I’m already up front taking the bridle off, anyway.
But you can do it from the helm, if the wind is kicking.
And relax about the holes – they really are not hard to patch if you change your mind.
🙂
We have a Quick Windlass and we are very happy with it. We do not have the tethered control, not the wireless and you should be happy with your setup. We have the remote toggle at the helm and find it quite useful as well.
Cool!
Sorry, meant to say we have HAVE the tethered control up front. Good move on your part to at least have the remote. we like to be standing and mobile when raising or dropping the anchor.
I knew what you meant. 🙂
From the few times that I have operated an electric windlass I could definitely see the advantage of being able to move right up to the bow, etc. when raising the anchor.
Agree with the bent nail step as well. We drill an oversize hole, and stop short of the inner/under skin. Then clear sideways with bent nail in drill between the inner/outer skin to not only seal the core but to provide compression protection. I try to carefully clear the core down to the inner skin without going thru it but no big deal if I do. The compression detail is very important when thru bolting, not so much if just screwing. See West systems for further instructions.
You would use that method as opposed to the method I described/showed for the bolts attaching the windlass?
What I was describing is the plug method described in your link with the addition of removing additional core between the skins outside of the plug to provide extra seal and support. As mentioned in your link, manufacturers typically provide solid glass (non-cored) areas larger then the intended hardware and this additional process somewhat replicates that intent. Sort of “belt and suspenders” approach.
Perfect. That is what I was thinking too. And I do enjoy wearing my belt and suspenders together!
http://stephentrendy.files.wordpress.com/2008/02/lithgow_suspenders_72dpi.jpg
🙂
And one other thing; if you haven’t already, you and Rebecca should work out a hand signal system for anchoring and weighing. It is a job best done quietly.
We DO have a system although I haven’t quite deciphered the middle finger and shaking fist signals.
And yes, yelling back and forth is so “amateur” hehe
Since my boat was very “bare bones” when I bought it,I have drilled lots of holes. Every one starts with measuring about 12 times,and still that thought,”I hope I got this right!”.
The most exciting one was cutting the entire top of the gaalley out,to install a stove and sink. No going back on that one!
You are going to love that Rocna anchor,I’m sure. I have a 25 lb Manson,which is very similar,and after one season,it is an excellent choice.
Unfortunately,adding a windlass is not possible,so hauling that Manson with 50″ of 5/16 chain is always fun! Still,worth the effort to insure a good nights’ sleep when the wind picks up.
You’re right, there’s no going back on any of them, but hiding a mistake in that counter project would have been hard to hide. 🙂
The Rocna does work well. We only had the chance to use it a few times last year but it held well in the conditions we encountered. Hauling it us by hand though was a PITA!
Ooooh! We just cut holes in our cockpit for stereo speakers. We’re new to everything about sailboats. Hope we didn’t do anything wrong. I’ll have to pass this on to my husband, Ken. He may know what you’re talking about. This is a little over my head! =)
You may be happy to know Cheryl that your blog post showing the holes for those cockpit speakers was part of the inspiration for me writing this post. Tell Ken that he is a braver man than I am cutting those big holes!!!
Hello Ken n Cheryl.
No core – no problem, mon!
Bring on the tunes!
Watch you don’t put a knee thru the speaker when cranking on that winch, though. Been there-done that. 🙁
Kirk
Thanks for letting me know we didn’t do something really stupid! Now we’ll just take your advice and watch our knees!
[…] Kudos to Zero to Cruising for pointing me in the right direction on through-deck bolting. […]
I am a big fan for drilling, sealing & re-bedding using the tricks from Maine Sail at the Compass Marine site. He has great documentation, including well-lit photos, specific tools he uses, cut-away examples of how his techniques work, etc.
Check out:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware
and
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck
For his tutorials on how to drill holes in and mount equipment to the deck successfully.
There is some excellent info there! Thanks for the post.